Day 53 - 🏄

December 24th

It is Christmas eve, but it may as well be Christmas! Finally got to surf! Sadly I cannot buy a board nearby so I rented for the day. It was great! I've never been to such a beach so conducive surfing. Long cresting waves at a variety of decent heights that don't crash for a long time and offer decent power. I remembered how to surf from years ago, but I had forgotten how hard it was to paddle out past the waves. After the first few hours I couldn't paddle faster out then the waves could push me in. Unfortunately this I had to take a break. Rigo's cousin Lila came out to surf for a bit. I found it much easier swimming without the board now that I could use my legs and I helped Lila do some Surfing. At sunset we joined the boys on the beach a for a drink. That night I got hooked on surfing videos as I tried to better my abilities for the next time I go out!